The Little Wine Tasting That Could

Why the Judgment of Paris still resonates fifty years later

Gather round now, wine friends, and let’s travel back in time, fifty years ago. On May 24, 1976, nine influential French wine experts participated in a blind tasting in Paris, organized by British wine merchant Steven Spurrier at the suggestion of his American colleague, wine educator Patricia Gallagher. Why are we still talking about the Judgment of Paris half a century later?

What Happened in Paris

The tasting featured Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon from California (primarily Napa Valley) served alongside the finest white Burgundy and red Bordeaux. To everyone’s great surprise, the French judges overwhelmingly preferred the American wines. The top 3 Chardonnays were Chateau Montelena 1973, Chalone Vineyard 1974, and Spring Mountain Vineyard 1973. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 1973, Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello 1971, and Mayacamas Vineyards 1971 topped the reds. For more details, I highly recommend reading Spurrier’s account of the tasting and results.

The Judgement of Paris, 1976. Photo courtesy of The Académie du Vin Library

How a Tiny Wine Tasting Became a Phenomenon

Spurrier and Gallagher. 1976 in the classroom at L'Académie du Vin (image courtesy of the Smithsonian)

What could have been nothing more than a quiet and quirky tasting was the beginning of a major shift in the wine world. Only one reporter, George Taber, attended the Paris tasting and wrote about the surprising results for TIME magazine.

“Everybody turned [the invitation] down. I turned it down the first time,” said Taber. “Everybody knows that French wines are going to win, so why waste a day? It’s the giant and the little guy. Nobody took it seriously.”

Taber’s impactful Judgment of Paris article was a short sidebar — the tire ad dominates the page! (Image courtesy of Bevinars by Mark Oldman).

Taber’s petite article, Judgment of Paris, reverberated around the world. Not only did the blind tasting help elevate Napa Valley from a curiosity to a world-class contender, but it also opened the door for other up-and-coming wine regions to claim their place in the fine wine echelon.

“Whatever May 24th 1976 in Paris did for California, it subsequently inspired a series of Old World/New World blind tastings. Its lasting legacy was to have created a template whereby little-known wines of quality could be compared to well-known wines of quality. If the judges themselves were of quality, too, then their opinions on the wines would be respected,” said Spurrier.

The Judgment of Paris Continues to Inspire

In honor of the 50th anniversary of the Judgment of Paris, celebrations and blind tastings are happening around the globe throughout the year. I just returned from participating as an expert judge at the Judgment of Davis at UC Davis — the university’s viticulture and enology program is world-renowned. The Harvard Data Science Initiative co-hosted the event. Unlike the Judgment of Paris, which focused exclusively on French and California wines, the Judgment of Davis was open to Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon from around the world. 

In addition to the 16 invited judges, more than 50 audience members also participated in the final judgment of 12 reds (selected from approximately 150 submissions) and 13 whites (selected from approximately 120 submissions). And just like the Judgment of Paris, there were some surprises at the Judgment of Davis. Finalists in the red category included Tokara (South Africa) and Kenzo Estate AI (Napa Valley) alongside icons like Château Smith Haut Lafitte. In the Chardonnay category, Domaine Dujac 1er Cru Monts Luisants from Burgundy was highly regarded, but Giant Steps (Australia), Meadowbrook Winery (New Jersey), Waltz Vineyards (Pennsylvania), and Oldenburg Vineyards (South Africa) also had a strong showing. Follow the Judgment of Davis for more info. 

Do Wine Competitions Still Matter? 

In the same way that the Judgment of Paris was a catalyst for moving Napa Valley wines from the fringes to the top, well-organized blind tastings like the Judgment of Davis put a spotlight on wine regions that critics and consumers too often ignore. Quality wines are being made all over the world; it’s time to make room for them at the tasting table and in your glass. Cheers!